September 15, 2008

Today we went to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. The square is 60 football fields in area decorated with huge Disney-like floral displays for the Para Olympics. Mao's tomb is here as are government offices. A guard of school children stood at attention with a flag at the top of the steps of one monument to the working people. Across the street is the Forbidden City home to many dynasties of emperors. It has 9 outside gates an important symbol of wealth and position decorated with dragons, turtles, cranes depicting the 9 children of the emporer. The doorways have foot high sills which keep out rain and ghosts that cannot jump over. Higher sills connote importance as well. The doors have 81 knobs of gold again important symbolism. Three hours later we toured 2/3 of a mile through 7 gateways to get from the south to the north wall. The buildings have beautiful terra cotta rooves in a gold reserved for royalty. In ancient times wearing this royal yellow was punishable by death. Beyond the gates was the royal garden. A huge stone wall was built there for the royals to climb to play instruments or see the moon. It was held together by sticky rice.From there we visited a Hutong the Mongolian name for a traditional neighborhood homes which each have a well that makes a 'hutong' sound when a pebble is dropped in. We toured by rickshaw along streets from 8' to 42"wide. Everywhere persistent hawkers tried to sell 'Mao" watches, Olympic gear and chopsticks as you crossed the street, walked in the ally or by bicycle along side the rickshaw. Reaching the bus meant escape. The ancient homes have pillars signifying your rank, with 4 being the highest. The high door sills are also here.Each hutong consists of 2-3 families with a shared courtyard. It is protected by a secret knock upon the owners return. Each side is no bigger than a small trailer with a common area, kitchen and sleeping quarters. Toilets are optional!Outside beautiful girls are dressed along the roadside as brides for photos, a stark contrast to the simple homes, laundry hanging in the streets,dead poultry waiting to be cooked and rusted bicycles.Ironically, in this busy city there is no litter. Workers with brooms that look like our halloween decorations sweep everywhere. The real danger is the traffic jam of rickshaws, bikes, cars and taxis all converging in every direction on the narrow back streets.